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The quarters are near — 20 or so seats — but intimacy is the point, when you shuffle in and find yourself nearly encounter-to-face with Bo Porytko as he diligently is effective the stove. The food is hearty — as you may perhaps be expecting from the chef cooking inside the tradition of his Ukrainian grandmother — but it's accented by profes

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She influenced dishes like image-perfect cemitas produced with springy bread (Mr. Aparicio’s specialty), tart aguachile with slivers of scallops inside of a tub of leche de tigre, and tacos that are standard (al pastor, pescado) and never so traditional (vegan tacos arabes manufactured with mushrooms) on housemade sourdough tortillas. El Chingon

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